BERLIN ALTERNATIVE FASHION WEEK: ALCHEMY RUNWAY SHOW

Berlin Alternative Fashion Week

Hi our dear fashion addicts, here we are, straight from Berlin, to keep you up to date!
Yesterday has been without any doubt the most important day of all the BAFW, entirely dedicated to the runways of young talented fashion designers. Starting from the early afternoon ’till the late night, the true protagonists of the Alternative Berline Fashion Week have been exhibiting with their fresh collections, keeping the public glued to their chairs.
Perfect setting of the show has been the old railway station of Postbahnhof am Ostbahnhof, crowded from the audience and the staff dressed in a really and obviously ‘alternative’ way. Paillettes, eccentric outfits and sparkling colours were the undisputed focus of the event, in a mood of crackling excitement.
A truly incredible experience which has been developing each moment more crazy and more performative, far from that we would usually think of a “fashion show”.
Ivana Pilja opened the show with her collection of sculpture dresses, architectonically shaped and quite evocative of an obscure world.
The brand Field of ponies, on the other hand, showed a totally different proposal, dressing its models with comfortable tracksuits revisited with a decisively chic and fashion tone and entirely realized in organic cotton and eco-fur textiles, following an ethical view on materials’ sustainability.
The fashion designer Ciara Monahan, who has just graduated, has been lightening up the scene with the colours of her last collection, characterized by the use of the laser cut and the digital print. Then it was time for Justus K, who showed clear shapes and geometrical cuts, using an intense and bright make up that brings an urban tribe effect to life.
With MLì Svensson the shapes have become more fitted and went hand in hand with the continuous search for a see-through effect.
The event, however, started to gain more power and personality starting from with the show of the fabulous twins NADIA+ZEHRA, who made their models wear provocative and street-tasteful clothes with an energizing and ironic mood: really fun!
The designer Phoebe Heess has distinguished herself for her wide employ of different tonalities of black and grey, inflected with different and cool tissue combinations. The formal research has also been great, becoming evident in the particular structures of shoulders and hoods: it’s not a coincidence that the artist has worked with Adidas!
The arrival on the scene of the Bas Kosters collection has been definitely overturning everything and completely changing the flow of the nightshow, an all around act of magic. Creativity and color literally exploded on the catwalk, not only thanks to the triumph of clothes, which was really amazing, and the use of heterogeneous materials, but especially for the overall performance, protected by an impeccable aura and a sense of hieratic sacredness. A true celebration of art and beauty, ending as a real happening with the arrival on the scene of the designer himself and a miriad of naked models covered in glitter and flowers.
The Russian Roman Ermakov was not less surprising, however, presenting a highly performative collection: “scenic” clothes with fluorescent colours marched to the beat of the music as true itinerant installations.
Ending the Alchemy Runway Show, it was finally time for the amazing Jack Irving, for whom it’s hard to find words. Pure research, both regarding the really impressive, unexpected and amazing design of the costumes themselves, and regarding the materials and the study of the effects he was aiming for, which have been absolutely dynamic. It is not a coincidence that the artist, in his early twenties, has already dressed big names like Lady Gaga: a real breathtaking show.

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